Note: The color calibration module now provides a more modern and flexible method of controlling white balance. For creative color operations, it is usually better to use other modules such as color calibration or color balance rgb. White balance is not intended as a “creative” module – its primary goal is is to technically correct the white balance of the image ensuring that neutral colored objects in the scene are rendered with neutral colors in the image. The default settings for this module are derived from the camera white balance stored in the image’s Exif data. Ok, here is what I finally decided to do.Adjust the white balance of the image by altering the temperature and tint, defining a coefficient for each RGB channel, or choosing from list of predefined white balance settings. So put the camera on a tripod and use a remote shutter release. It's not the camera that's doing the shaking, it's you. I didn't do it right but it should be possible to do unsharp masking with directional blur, so it would be sharpened more in one direction. Example from a horribly shaky original below: Depending on the subject, a cartoony treatment may still make the image useable. In a case like this, either use a small image where it's not obvious, or you can try some kind of posterizing or other such effect. You can theoretically largely reverse the effect of a moving camera (or moving subject), but any such technique requires that you know the exact path the image took during the exposure and you'll still get some pretty nasty artifacts (ringing) due to lack of information. (too slow and i was not convinced by the results) I have also refocus-it but i never upload because i was not happy with it I can't test them, but there is a Refocus plugin for Windows at and a Refocus-it plugin at Direct links:Īs far from refocus you may found compiled for windows in my Gimp resources gallery here /gallery/ The_andy_man running Windows XP SP3, and I can't seem to figure out how to install these plugins. After that, if you want to go further, you could reconstruct the texture from a good image. A bit of touch-up by hand could sharpen up some critical edges. This is after subtracting out one image, and then a bit of standard unsharp mask. These techniques increase the noise, so it doesn't help that this image is already pretty grainy, and suffering from the noise-reduction in the camera. It can also work to do your own unsharp mask, but with a motion blur, instead of a circular blur that is built in to the standard action- to match the direction and distance of motion. Then use curves to reestablish the tone map. In this case, you can get some improvement by duplicating the layer, then colors->invert, set opacity to 20% or so, and then offset it to try to cancel out the double image. Maybe you can give a try with Refocus and Refocus-it, both for Gimp. Try using a monopod or tripod with these low light exposures. This is so shaky that it is almost a double exposure. So you might not understand it but maybe somebody else is interested too ) I wrote an article about camera shake in my blog on but unfortunately it's in German. Use a tripod, higher ISO, do some underexposure to get the time shorter (and correct it later on in GiMP). The image becomes crisper but without getting more details. You might only reduce the impression of total shake. Just to name two influences.Īnd secondly: You won't correct the blur of camera shake. Well, firstly the settings in the USM depend on the image size and the objects on the picture - bigger image, bigger radius. Looks especially poor when you look at large (original) size. Here is an example of what I am trying to correct. Works wonders! I generally start out with 5px, 0.50, and 0 threshold. I get extremely frustrated when I get home and load the pics on the computer only to find the best ones are JUST blurry enough to make them useless. So, as far as I know, it's impossible to remove camera shake from an image, correct?
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